Wines for the Weekend, The Holidays, and Gifting: Champagne!

Nothing seems to create an atmosphere of celebration more than the popping of a champagne cork. This fabulous drink has created its very own mystique of pleasure and partying. It is ubiquitous from South Beach clubs to professional sports locker rooms. It’s used to launch ships, marriages, business start-ups and retirement parties, celebrate wins, anniversaries, and New Years. It’s world wide popularity makes me wonder how much there can possibly be. Well, the good news is that there is enough for you and me.

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First, a quick lesson. There are three main methods of sparkling wine production. The first is a simple injection of CO2, just like making soft drinks. The second is the Charmat Process. This is suitable for adding bubbles to wines in bulk stainless steel tanks during the second fermentation and then bottling them under pressure. The most popular of these are two Italian wines, Prosecco and Asti.

The oldest and most traditional method is the most labor-intensive and therefor most expensive, but is the purist’s preference: Methode Champenois. Purportedly developed by a Benedictine monk in the Champagne district of France known as Dom Pierre Perignon. If you want to be globally politically correct you must know that only wines from that district in France can be called Champagne, and the French are very protectionist. They have been known to sue in World Court. Within Champagne alone there are over 1,000 producers, but that is a whole other story. So call any bubbly from everywhere else sparkling wine, but make sure it was created by Methode Champenois. There are many great ones, at many price points.

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I have often been asked which Champagne to give as a gift, and I always respond with two questions: How much do you want to spend? and How much does the recipient know about Champagne? It’s easy to impress anybody with an expensive well known label, but you can really impress someone knowledgeable with a rare and delicious find at half the price. So here’s a simple guide by price.

Under $10. Cava, the Spanish sparkler: Cristalino Brut, Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut ( the black bottle), Segura Viudas Brut Reserva and Marques de Monistrol Brut. You might also find some Italian Prosecco in this range. From France (but not the Champagne region): Baron Cristal Extra Dry and Baron De Martiney Brut. And from California, Weibel Grand Cuvee.

$10 to $15. Chandon from California makes a Blanc de Noirs and a Brut Classic in this price range, and a rose for a few bucks more. It’s a great house sparkler. Also from California is Piper Sonoma. And try Domaine Ste. Michelle from Washington State.

$15 to $25. Now you can try the Methode Champenoise California products like Scharffenberger Cellars Roederer Estate Brut or Mumm Napa Valley “Brut Prestige”.

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$25 to $35. At this level you can step up to real Champagne territory. I have found that anything with “Heidsieck” on the label equals quality and good taste. Heidsieck & Co. Monopole Blue Top Brut, Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, and Piper-Heidsieck. Laurent Perrier Brut NV and Montaudon Brut are excellent choices as well. Nicolas Feuillatte is also worth a try. Perrier Jouet Grand Brut has a gold label from the same house as the famous painted white flowers and is extremely good for this price.perrierjouetbelleepoque1996.gif

$35 to $65. This is a great price range for the best of our domestic producers such as Schramsberg (all their wines are excellent and are recognized by connoisseurs) , Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut or their Wedding Cuvee, Mumm Napa Valley DVX, and Roederer Estate L’Ermitage. You also get to try great wines from the producer of the iconic Dom Perignon, Moet & Chandon. Have their Brut and Brut Rose. I especially enjoy Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee after its had a few years in the cellar. Gossett is another excellent Champagne House with some of their cuvees in this range. And for romance you will love the Laurent Perrier Rose. And don’t overlook Pommery and Pol Roger Brut.

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$75 and above. As I mentioned earlier, you can impress almost everyone with Dom Perignon or Louis Roederer Cristal because of their statue and fame but also because they taste special. Others will spend even more to get Krug, either the Grand Cuvee or vintage. Some serious wine-lovers prefer Bollinger R.D., a very full and serious wine. And a big favorite but lesser known “prestige Champagne” is Pol Roger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill.

Their are literally dozens of “Farmer Fizzies”, wines made in Champagne by small producers from their own vineyards and without all the intervention and formal house style of the huge producers. These are known as Grower Champagnes and are beginning to enter our market. They are well worth searching for, as they represent a wonderful personality, and exceptional quality and value. These small production French bubblies are to Champagne what cult wines are to California. You can find them priced from $40 to $110, often at Sunset Corners (www.sunsetcorners.com) or Wolfes Wine Shoppe.

As I said, the research was exhausting, but well worth it. Feel free to comment on any of these as you try them, or if you have trouble finding them. ‘Tis the season to be Bubbly!

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