Zinfandel is a variety of red grape that was long considered “America’s vine and wine”. It is most commonly associated with California and is grown in almost all parts of that state. It is also grown in 14 other states from Massachusetts to Arizona. It has a long and interesting history in America, starting with a Long Island horticulturist named George Gibbs, who received several shipments of grapes from Eastern Europe between 1820 and 1829. It became a popular table grape, grown in heated greenhouses. By the 1850’s it was carried to California by several nurserymen who were joining the Gold Rush. By the end of the 19th century it was the most widespread variety in California and the wines were highly praised. The few of those old vines that survived Prohibition (when many vineyards were ripped up) are now treasured for their production of premium red wines.
Zinfandel grapes are red, but their juice is clear, or “white”, as is the juice of many other red varietals. To give the wine more color, the skins are left in the juice after crushing. The longer they are left, the redder the color, and vice versa. In the 1970’s the Sutter Home winery vinified the lighter colored juice and sold it as a dry rose called “White Zinfandel” After a vintage in which the yeast died off before all the sugar had turned to alcohol, the winemaker discovered that he had a pink, sweet wine that had huge commercial potential. In the same way that Mateus Rose became a huge success in Europe after WWII, this sweet “White Zinfandel” became immensely popular. Even today it accounts for 9.9% of US wine sales by volume. Thanks to the huge popularity of this wine, and the marketing efforts of the Sutter Home and Beringer wineries, wine sales in America have risen dramatically in the past three decades. Gradually the American wine palate has matured and expanded. By the 1990’s the wine consuming public came to know that Zinfandel is an excellent red wine. However, the two wines are so different that even today some consumers think that “white zinfandel” is a distinct grape variety, and not a different way of processing the same (red) grapes.
You may have heard of CSI, thanks to the popular TV show, but the same science has been applied for years in WSI (wine scene investigation). Remember Mr. Gibbs of Long Island? After much DNA analysis, comparative field trials, and extensive vineyard tours it turns out that good ole’ American Zinfandel has its roots in Croatia, in a small sample of just 9 vines out of thousands along the Dalmatian coast.
So much for history and genealogy, let’s talk taste! You can see why this wine is considered a big bold American as soon as you open the bottle. Red Zinfandel is characterised by intense fruit flavors of blackberries, anise and pepper when they come from Sonoma County and its Dry Creek or Russian River appellations, or a little more raspberry and currant from the warmer Napa Valley. It almost always has more alcohol than other wines, sometimes 15% or more.
It is the third largest wine production grape in California, behind Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Look for these areas and characteristics: Amador produces big, full-bodied Zins; Lodi has some of the oldest vines and produces juicy, approachable wines; Napa is known for the plummy and intense red berry flavors; Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo makes soft, round wines with less acidity; zins from Santa Clara and the Santa Cruz Mountains are know for complexity and depth; and Sonoma County, particularly Dry Creek Valley produces juicy bright fruit, balanced acidity and notes of blackberry, anise and pepper.
I’m not going to recommend individual wines in this huge category. Some producers have achieved cult status and their wines sell for $100 a bottle or more. However, most producers in the appellations mentioned above sell their wines for anywhere from $11 to $20. Zinfandel has the ability to reflect its terroir and also reflect the skill and style of the winemaker. It is a very personal wine.
It is fantastic with almost any kind of food. Drink it with barbeque (chicken, beef, pork, sausage, etc.), pizza, hamburgers, meatloaf, lasagna, hot dogs, almost all Italian foods, and anytime you want a fun, lively red wine. It has universal appeal, goes well with everything, is big and bold and easy to get along with. It really is America’s grape.